Four months had passed since my arrival in Japan. By then I had tasted all sorts of bizarre marine creatures and visited many temples and shrines. Yet still my feelings were drawn to the onsen question.

Onsens are quintessentially Japanese - fostering the idea of communal living, where public and private is less distinct than in the West. They are part of daily life and a great window into Japanese society.

Hot spring bathing first became popular in Japan over 1000 years ago and was initially restricted to the aristocrats. They became popular with warlords during the Warring States period (1477-1568) to heal battle wounds. Eventually this pleasure was passed down to common folk. But would I or wouldn't I?

Coming from a fairly traditional family in the UK, being naked is seen as a very private thing. I can't even remember the last time I saw my parents without clothes on. When using the changing room at a swimming pool I'd either dart into a cubicle or find a concealed corner. We just aren't used to such openness in the West. I'd like to explain it with the fact that we live in a body-conscious society, but then image is equally important in Japan.

The thought of baring all in front of these men was rather unsettling. However, I managed to convince myself I had to try it. I could always run out again!

I chose Tamatsukuri in Tamayu as I was already familiar with the area. Biking up the main street I passed waves of tourists doddling about in their yukata and geta. Tamatsukuri is a huge draw for people all over Japan who use the resort as a base for visiting Shimane's other attractions.

I arrived at my chosen onsen. I purchased my ticket from the machine and got a towel from the reception desk. It seemed all they had to offer was a hand towel!

Walking into the changing room I found my locker and began to undress. I took my time, stalling before I had to go the Full Monty, anxious at being stared at. My thoughts were also on the rigid etiquette at onsens - washing before entering the bath, rinsing all soap out, not letting your towel in the bath. It all seemed so complicated.

By now I was completely naked except for a miniscule piece of material that barely reached around my bum. My heart-rate quickened as I walked into the onsen. Rows of men were perched on stools washing away their daily grime. I found a vacant spot and sat down glaring at myself in the mirror. I pumped out some soap onto my towel and began washing - but the high school student who sat next to me cheerfully pointed out that it was shampoo I was energetically rubbing myself with. Doh! I had the most rigorous scrub, with no part of me left out - the way your Mum used to clean you. Except, I was simply putting off leaving my little area and exposing myself in the bath.

Eventually I pried myself away and, clutching at my towel, strolled over to the bathing area. Now was the time to let myself go. I peeled away the covering and sank into the water. The heat enveloped me, searing my skin. Grasping at the sides I let my body float to the surface. A wave of relaxation calmed my senses and my apprehensions melted away. This was heaven.

They say that bathing in a hot spring is similar to the environment inside a mother's womb. A tingling sensation overcame me, soothing the aches and pains in my joints and muscles. A few faces looked over towards me but they all glowed with friendliness. It was then that I came out with my burst of Japanese - to cries of laughter from those around me.

I sat and observed ojiisan chatting away, young boys running and screaming and splashing in the water. I began to see the communal nature of bathing in public - old school friends that have kept in touch for years, fathers and sons bonding. I realised that this is a true experience of Japan, where you can observe relationships between family and friends unlike in any other setting.

I rose out of the water, wrapped my towel around and sauntered to the outdoor bath. The cool breeze sent a shiver over my body, but that dissipated as I sank into the steamy water.

The temperature overwhelmed me and my thoughts drifted, my body melting away into oblivion. I hadn't felt so content in a long time.

My ears awakened to the giggles of obaasan from the ladies onsen on the other side of the fence. A long time ago we might have shared the same bath, but the Tokugawa Shogunate, at different times, prohibited mixed bathing. With the arrival of Commodore Perry in the late 1800s, separate bathing became the norm. Mixed bathing houses can still be found today, especially in Northern Honshu, but most onsens are now segregated.

The rising steam danced, swirling as it met the icy breeze from above. The sun began to set in the distant sky, painting a silver varnish over the feathered clouds. I gazed into the azure sky dreaming of nothingness. Eventually I pulled my frazzled body out of the water and walked back inside to the changing room - this time without covering myself. Because I'd managed to lose my reserve, I had gained so much more.

Visiting an onsen is a great insight into Japanese life. If you haven't yet been, then I suggest you take the plunge. But try and leave your inhibitions in the changing room.

Atsui desu ne − It's hot isn't it
Sou desu ne − Yes it is, isn't it.
Onsen − hot spring bath
Yukata − summer kimono
Geta − wooden sandals
Ojiisan − old man
Obaasan − old woman