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In July, I went to Izumo Taisha Shrine to get acquainted with the gods
of love-those gods not to be underestimated unless you want to wind up
eating microwave meals for one for the rest of your life. Maybe my wishes
weren't loud enough or maybe they fell on deaf ears because, after all
my efforts, it came…that phone-call.
A few weeks ago, my Welsh Prince back home, due to join me in Shimane any
month now, told me the results of his interview with a popular teaching
agency cruelly known as the 'Fast food restaurant of the English-Teaching
world.' Turns out the agency did indeed share some parallels with your
average fast-food joint in that you go in thinking it will be the solution
to your immediate problem, but when you get there it is just not as satisfying
as you had hoped. Our plans for Japanese paradise looked bleak. Thinking
about it from a selfish point of view, I began to dwell on my ruined plans:
"Oh how distraught I am in Japan having a marvelous time and now my
dearest can't come to this year-long party I've thrown for myself."
I thought, if, as Liza Minelli once sang, 'Life is a Cabaret,' then this
has to be one of the worst gigs I've done. In the end, we half-heartedly
agreed to battle out the issue. Little did I know the face-off was just
around the corner.
After a night of merriment in Hirata, I naturally wanted to phone my loved
one back home to declare my deepest-hiccup-undying love. "When are
you coming over?" Silence, low tones, breathing in through teeth (you
know the sound, the one when you ask the mechanic how much it'll cost to
fix you car). It seemed he had indeed reached a decision, complete with
plenty of reasons: the lower pay, the interest rates, it's just too painful.
Then he asked, "Would I come back tomorrow if it meant saving the
relationship?"
My silence. My pouting. Wrong timing. Wrong everything. With the gods of
Taisha less than 15 miles away, and telephones and e-mail, I had been convinced
that in the face of adversity, all I'd need was love. But my Welsh Prince
had decided to close the door on our 10-month love roller coaster.
"But I love you," I said. "I love you too much," he
said. "I wanted to marry you." Had he no idea? I also wanted
cute Welsh babies with unpronounceable Welsh names! WHAT WAS THE PROBLEM?
It was so moronic. Love shouldn't fall at the (in our case) seventh or
eighth hurdle. But I wanted the movie ending! This wouldn't happen to Nicole
Kidman! Nobody would call it a day with her because of interest rates!
I wanted wailing and roses and the stopping of planes on runways. I wanted
the fairytale!
Aren't break-ups meant to be extremely dramatic and eventful? This was
just like arranging a funeral. In my cabaret, my leading man had taken
an eternal Sabbatical and I imagined settling for one of those dreaded
understudies, who, however hard they try, will never be quite as good as
the original. At 5:30 that morning, I was still awake, making up my own
lyrics to blues songs in the dark, churning out lines about samurai swords
and high-speed trains-dramatic ways to end this little Cabaret show.
The worst and saddest thing about love is that it leaves you incredibly
vulnerable and open to ridicule. Love is so cliche and vomit-inducing,
but when we are infected with this euphoric disease, we lose touch with
reality. My Welsh Prince sounded gutted, but worse than that he sounded
defeated. Maybe defeat is a disease worse than love.
Before that call, I had been unknowingly hurtling head first towards emotional
oblivion. So what now? Suddenly, I realized that, in effect, I had abandoned
him the moment I got on the plane at Heathrow. Out of nowhere, I had decided
to step into the ring with the English Agencies out here in Shimane, meanwhile
valiantly declaring, "Since I am still in love with you, so I happen
to think that this is worth fighting for and I'm not gonna let anyone spoil
it either." Cringe. Preparing for ten bouts of pain and confusion,
I decided still to make the employment pilgrimage I'm sure many Shimaneans
have made, selfishly leaving their other halves behind and then trying
to lure them to this strange land with "You'll love it here…It's
not that rural."
I imagine these individuals have maybe wound up in a straightjacket at
a rehab centre for the criminally-in-love. At home, their (ex) other halves
have moved on. They've had a promotion, they've won the lottery, they're
dating attractive TV presenters with 28-inch hips. Meanwhile, the newest
love victims in Shimane, like myself, are running on their last reserves
of sanity. They have just begun the grueling process of whoring their other
half's credentials to prospective employers, like sales people with invisible
products.
Since the night of the phone call, I've discovered the local Ichibata train
can't really go fast enough to kill me. So, instead, I went back to Izumo
Taisha to make my peace with Okuninushi-no-Kami, the god of love and happiness.
Back in July, I obviously hadn't done enough to secure my romantic future
so this time I threw an offering into the box, clapped four times and bought
a slate to write my wish/statement to the gods. Call me a fool or a hopeless
romantic but there wasn't a trace of irony or remorse here. I wrote a simple
message in Welsh: "Cariad am Byth"-Love Forever.
Photography by Ben Logsdon
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