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The Shimanean

The Shimanean-A quarterly publication about Shimane,for Shimane
oh, Noh!  By Christina Pepper
 "Oh, no!" This is what a fellow JET said when asked if she wanted to attend a performance of a visiting Kyoto Noh theatre troupe.

 "Aannnoooo, no." This is what the drama teacher at my school replied when I inquired if he would grace said performance.

 "Oh, hell no!!!" This is what my friends in America exclaimed when they heard about my impending Japanese theatre experience.

 And yet with all these rejections and a handful of other warnings ("You might want to take some Prozac along!"), I found myself on January 19th sitting in the red cushioned seats of the Matsue Prefectural Theater trying to convince myself that it wouldn't be, couldn't be, that bad.

 And, surprisingly, it wasn't.

 When I arrived at the theatre the first thing I noticed was that the audience was composed mostly of people between their late thirties and early seventies. Many of the women were dressed in heavy winter kimono and haori (the overcoat for kimono). Shuffling along on wooden geta, these gray-haired-bun women clip-clopped their way down the aisles and into their seats. The two women in the row directly in front of me spent the first five minutes taking their medication (Prozac?) for the day -- spilling an assortment of pills into each other's wrinkled hands. I felt young, underdressed and very foreign.

 Next, I took note of the stage and scenery or lack of scenery as was the case. Elevated above the normal stage was the traditional Noh wooden stage and a spattering of small pine trees. In Japan, the evergreen pine is a symbol of longevity and unchanging steadfastness, and can be seen in many Noh productions.

 First to enter, dressed in black tops and billowing gray or brown pants were the hayashi (musicians), jiutia (chorus) and stage-hands (the stage-hands actually stay on stage and hand the actors props when needed). Usually consisting of eight men, the jiutai sits at the side of the stage and narrates the character's thoughts and emotions. Perched at the back of the stage, the hayashi play various instruments including: the nohkan (flute), kotsuzumi (an hourglass-shaped drum held at the shoulder), okawa (an hourglass-shaped drum placed on the lap), and taiko (a drum beaten with sticks). Kakegoe or drum calls were also utilized. Adding to the sound texture of the performance, drum calls serve as signals between the drummers and singers.

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 The play begins only once all the actors have entered the stage. As soon as a Noh play commences the core aesthetic elements of Noh -- monomane (the imitation of things) and yugen (mystery, depth, quiet elegance, grace, and subtle beauty) -- are apparent. Noh theatre is known for being slow, so for several minutes the audience sits and watches the actors gracefully walk onto the stage. Much of the performance is compostition of deliberate movements, a sing-song delivery of some old-school Japanese, and the punctuating beats of drums, drum calls and the actors stomping their feet.

 The whole experience lasted three hours and fifteen minutes which, as any thespians will attest, is a long show. There were actually three different plays: two Noh dramas and one Kyogen comedy. Kyogen is the classical comic theater which balances the more serious Noh. Dressed in bright pastel colored costumes, the actors slithered across stage in pants several feet longer than their own legs. This costume choice alternately conjured up images of small boys dressing up in their father's clothes and of aliens whose legless bodies were being propelled by the swoosh-swoosh of excess material. Those images in themselves made me laugh.

 Given the language barrier, it was no wonder that much of the storyline of these performances were lost on me. But add upon that the fact that in Noh space and time is not portrayed realistically, and you are in for one confusing theatrical experience. And yet, the beauty of Noh is not what it shows you but what it doesn't show you. Noh affords its audience the freedom to use their imaginations -- to create everything from the scenery to the characters' facial expressions. In taking a public performance and transforming it into a personal production, Noh theatre offers a show unlike what you may experience in mainstream western drama.

 So, while you may not exit a performance of Noh with a tear in your eye or humming a snappy showtune, when someone asks you, "So was it awful?" you can emphatically answer, "Oh, no!"

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